I Can See Cleary Now The Rain Has Gone

Statues in Waterford!

When we had visited Dublin 3 years ago, I had seen photos of Kinsale (the start of The Wild Atlantic Way) with its fishing boats and brightly painted buildings along the water front. It was one place I wanted to make sure we visited on this trip.

Kath and Mick Cleary had arrived earlier in the week and and the plan was to meet up with them in Kinsale on their tour of southern Ireland before moving on to the Ring of Kerry for a weekend together. So on Thursday afternoon, David and I travelled to Waterford on route to Kinsale. We were very disappointed in Waterford. The town lacked the lustre of other towns we had visited around Ireland and although it is Ireland's oldest city, the history of the town did not appear to have been maintained as in other towns.

In comparison, I loved Kinsale, a picturesque town on the Bandon River estuary with numerous sailing boats moored in its harbour, known not only for its significant part in Irish history but also its culinary delights. We had a beautiful meal at "Crackpots", which specialised in seafood, while being entertained by an accomplished pianist. As the evening moved on, two singers added to the entertainment, singing well known musical and popular songs - certainly not the style we had previously experienced around Dublin but adding nonetheless to a wonderful evening.

Dinner at Crackpots

Breakfast the following morning at the hotel, was in a room that took in the view of the tranquil marina and harbour. We were also entertained by two hotel guests who obviously didn't think they could be seen (or just didn't care) as they prepared for their day in their hotel room opposite.

Kinsale

We spent the morning in the town, walking through the streets with their vivid painted buildings, flowers in pots and window baskets. We stopped to take in the view of the harbour where huge fish were clearly visible, swimming in the shallows. 

At Kinsale harbour

Kinsale

We left Kinsale on a sunny morning and drove on to Charles Fort,  situated on the headland. This huge star-shaped fort sits on the water's edge and was prominent in the Seige of Kinsale in 1601. We roamed around the ruins in blustery winds, taking in the history and lapping up the sunshine.

Charles Fort

Charles Fort

At this point, Kath and Mick decided to head towards Killarney before meeting us at our overnight accommodation at Portmagee on the Ring of Kerry and we set off around the Ring of Kerry. The winding roads took in the view, sometimes at water level and at other times from high up overlooking spectacular cliffs to the choppy water far below. You could often see calm inlets with many boats moored and houses dotted on the hills away from civilisation. Sheep roamed the steep hills and small towns came and disappeared equally as quickly as we travelled through them, all with colourful flowers and signs indicating whether they had been a tidy town winner.

Sculpture at The Ewe Experience

David had seen reference to "The Ewe Experience" in one of the guide books listing the "must do" attractions in County Cork. Intrigued by the description, we stopped on route to Portmagee to see what it was all about. It was actually the private home and gardens of an artist and was described as an "interpretive sculpture garden". It was set amongst waterfalls and had whimsical creations of all shapes and sizes, along with narratives about the art. Although a quick stop, it was also a welcome break from the winding roads and an enjoyable experience.

Portmagee

Our overnight accommodation was on Valencia Island, across the bridge from the town of Portmagee. The view from the B&B was spectacular - looking towards the town and marina with the hills in the background. Thankfully the weather was in our favour and we were able to look towards the calm waters, like glass, reflecting the colourful buildings and surrounding hills.  Our main reason for coming to Portmagee was to go to the Skellig Islands. This World Heritage Site is 12 km off shore and the opportunity to get there and to climb the larger of the Skelligs (Skellig Michael) is unpredictable because of the winds in the area. Over half the trips had been cancelled this summer, however we were so fortunate that the winds were mild and the sea relatively calm, and the trip was able to go ahead.

Skellig Michael

At the monastery on Skellig Michael

Descending from the monastery.

Arriving at the port on Saturday morning, we were directed to a small boat that held a maximum of 12. After donning the wet weather gear that we were advised was necessary, we set off on the hour long voyage out to these islands of rock that rise impressively 714 feet out of the sea.
The boat was able to land temporarily so everyone could quickly disembark before we set off along the path towards the start of the trail that takes you up 618 steps to beehive dome structures where monks once lived. Before climbing the steps, we were given warnings by a guide about the dangers of the climb and the deaths in the past. We were not deterred and made it up to the top, up small, steep stone stairs, although some in our group turned back. The amazing view from the top and the remoteness had us wondering how the monks were able to make it out to this island let alone live there in the 6th century. Puffins also inhabit the island during the Puffin season and it is also the breeding ground for lots of sea birds. The steps back down towards the boat were probably more scary than the trip up. A shower of rain made us mindful of our footing. As we neared the boat, we saw dolphins swimming in the waters. A truly amazing experience!

Little Skellig

On our boat trip back to Portmagee, we were taken around the smaller of the Skelligs, Little Skellig. This island is covered in birds nesting on its rugged faces and outcrops. It is home to the world's second largest colony of gannets, over 23,000 pairs nesting on every available ledge.

At Ballinskellig Castle

After returning to the mainland and having a late lunch, we drove the Skellig Ring scenic drive. We got a view of the Skellig Islands, cliff faces and beaches and wandered through Ballinskelligs Abbey and Castle. The castle is slowly being eroded away by the tide and a sea wall had been constructed to preserve the abbey with its old graves.

Dinner at The Point

We returned to our accommodation to get ready for dinner. We had a fantastic seafood dinner at "The Point". This is near the nearby town of Cahersiveen, a ferry ride across from Valencia Island to the mainland. 

Cahir Castle

Our weekend with Kath and Mick was coming to an end. They continued on their travels to Dingle and Galway while David and I headed off to Kilkenny. It was a quick overnight stop before we returned to Dublin. On route, we stopped in at Cahir in County Tipperary, which has one of the largest castles in Ireland. We had a quick look around the castle before continuing on to Kilkenny. After arriving in Kilkenny and checking in to our hotel we took off to mass before a look around the town.We walked around Kilkenny Castle and saw a small part of its expansive gardens overlooking the River Nore, walked the main street with its historical buildings and pubs and took in the sounds of Irish music at night. We particularly enjoyed listening to "The Kilkenny's" in Lanigans Pub before the local youth took over the place.

Kilkenny Castle

Back in Dublin for the rest of the week before we head off for a few nights in Paris!