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| Split |
Croatia with its rugged coastline on the Adriatic Sea, numerous islands with clear blue water, walled towns, seafood and history....amazing! We were hoping for some relaxation, but also looked forward to the excitement of exploring this part of the world.
Our first impression as we caught a taxi, late afternoon into Split, was how rugged and barren the landscape was. We were dropped as close to our accommodation as possible, as we were staying in the centre of the town although away from most of the hustle and bustle of noisy tourists. We were met by Ivan who owned the apartment we had booked. Although tiny, it had everything we needed and was cool as temperatures were in the low 30's and the humidity high.
The apartment was close to a small local market. Ivan had left us juice and cool water but we were still in need of breakfast supplies. After putting on a load of washing we went to stock up and get used to the local currency - the kuna. Returning to the apartment, laden with groceries we hung out our washing - as you do living in apartment blocks in Croatia on a line on a pully system - by hanging out the window. I left this job to David as I felt sure I would have our washing on the ground far below.
Our first evening after dinner, was spent walking the Old Town. Narrow laneways between white stone buildings the town. These laneways were like a maze, each one intriguing and leading to another to explore. Some opened to a large courtyard, many with washing strung in view of the diners eating at the various restaurants. Vivid pink bougainvillieas clung to old walls and there always seemed to be a cat watching, almost out of view.
Split, is centred around the Diocletian Palace. Built in the 4th Century by the Roman emperor, Diocletian, this fortress is the main focus of the Old Town. At night, cushions are placed on the stairs around the central courtyard and musicians entertain the crowds who sit soaking up the ambience.
After a lazy start the next morning, we walked down to the waterfront to organise and book ferry tickets,
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| Outlook from Fortress Kamerlengo |
rental car and tours. We caught the ferry to Trogir for the afternoon and had dinner. It was a pleasant 30 minute boat ride with a cool sea breeze masking the heat. Trogir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a small settlement built in the Roman period. We roamed the city and climbed Fortress Kamerlengo, where you got an impressive view of the town and port. We caught the bus back to Split after sampling some of the local delights, arriving back to the busyness and vibrancy of Split at night.
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| Coffee at Maslinica |
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| At the Blue Lagoon |
An early start, the next day, had us at the port for our day trip - a Blue Lagoon Cruise.We sat on the deck of the boat with our legs hanging over the side, watching the rugged cliff faces as we headed to the calm waters for swimming at Blue Lagoon. This beach was our first experience of the stony beaches of Croatia. Once we made it across the stones to the water, the water was beautiful- cool and clear. Lunch was provided under the shade of the trees and then it was off to Maslinica for more swimming and a wander around the village. This was a pretty port, with boats moored in almost transparent water. We arrived back in Split weary after a day at sea.
David had always wanted to visit Medjugorge in Bosnia, and when we planned our trip to Croatia this was a must on our list. Located 141 km from Split, we hired a car and to our astonishment were given a convertible. We took off for a full day that was to take in Medjugorge and Mostar. We travelled along the motorway, before turning off onto a pot holed road that led us to the town of Medjugorge. Since 1981, the Blessed Virgin Mary has been appearing here and giving messages to the world and has been the site of many pilgrimages and visits from people of all faiths.
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| Apparition Hill, Medjugorje |
It was an emotional experience as people pray and adore the crucifix or statue of the weeping cross as it has become known. An area that was harder to find was Apparition Mountain, an extremely rocky climb up the mountain to a statue of Mary at the top.
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| Mostar |
From Medjugorge we drove on to Mostar. It was apparent that this area had been heavily affected by the war as bombed buildings were still visible. A picturesque bridge spanned the river with men collecting money to jump into the water far below. We were surprised by this town with its market stalls and stone buildings bordering the river.
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| The Old Town of Korcula |
After 4 nights in Split our next destination was Korcula, a small walled medieval town, home to Marco Polo, a 3 hour ferry ride from Split. This was my favourite place in Croatia, probably because it was smaller and less crowded. Staying in the heart of the Old Town, across from St Marka with its bell tower and swimming under the walls in clear, warm blue water was just magical!
We only had 2 nights here, not enough to explore all there was to see on the island. We bought swimming shoes, so we could comfortably get into the water without stumbling and falling as had been the way I previously had entered the water.
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| View from atop the Korcula Town Gate |
We swam, floated on a lilo, relaxed, ate Croatian style Tapas, climbed the bell tower, roamed all the laneways, learnt all about Marco Polo, caught a water taxi to Badija Beach and enjoyed every moment of our time here. Our time went all too quickly!
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| Tapas at Fundamentum, Korcula |
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| View over Dubrovnik |
Before we knew it we were off to Dubrovnik, our final destination in Croatia. We were picked up from the port by our host and dropped close to our villa which sat high on the hill directly above the Old City. What a view!
The path to the Old City, down 300 steps and the return via a different path another 265 steps, took us past pink bougainvillieas and tall sunflowers, fig and olive trees and vines with plump grapes. I loved this walk which we sometimes did 3 times a day despite the heat, humidity and all those steps!
We decided to head to Banje Beach for a swim after settling in to the villa. We had been spoilt by the clear waters of previous areas we had swum. In comparison Banje Beach was a disappointment. As it was late in the day, the private beach (where you have to pay to get a space with a sun lounge and umbrella )was closed. That left the public beach with wall to wall people and doof doof music pounding from the bar above the beach. We cooled off and then abandoned the beach in favour of a walk through the walled town.
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| View of Dubrovnik Old Town from the top of the cable ca |
Prior to arriving in Dubrovnik we had decided on two things we most wanted to do. One of these was to take the cable car to the mountain top above the city. We rode the car to the top at sunset and the view was spectacular. We avoided, where possible, the young girls taking numerous selfies and the couple locked in a passionate embrace, to take our snapshots before heading back down the cable car and into town for dinner.
Despite the disappointment of our swim, dinner, that evening, at a restaurant overlooking the water and marina was lovely. The evening air was humid and hot late into the night and the view of the water helped to give a feeling of being cool. We climbed the numerous steps back up the hill to our villa to prepare for our kayak tour early the next day.
Starting at 9:00 am, the tour began with a lesson on how to kayak.
Despite this lesson, one man managed to paddle most of the trip with the paddle back the front. Leaving from the park below the Pile Gate, we set off to paddle below the high walls of the Old Town, around Lokrum Island, stopping at a cave along the way, past the nudist beach and across the main waterway to a small coastal beach for snorkelling and lunch, before returning to where we started. Our guide told numerous stories along the way to our group of 10, which also gave me a much needed break; 7km, 3 hours later and with aching arms, we returned. It was a great morning and a good way to see Dubrovnik from a different perspective.
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| On the Wall |
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| Dubrovnik City Wall |
As if our Kayak tour was not enough exercise for the day, we also decided to walk the city walls. Combined with the 500 steps to the villa, I slept very well that night! The view from the walls was fantastic. It varied from looking down within the walls on small market gardens and fruit groves to ruins, a legacy of the war, and people launching themselves from the rock face to the water far below. After gathering some supplies for dinner at the villa, we once again trooped up the stairs. That evening, as we sat enjoying a glass of wine while taking in the view, we could hear the sounds of the city and music wafting up from the within the walls.
On our last day in Croatia we saw the other side to the beautiful mediterranean weather we had been experiencing. A huge storm approached with thunder and lightening rolling over the city. We had been within the walls after attending mass and buying some souvenirs when we decided to return to the villa to watch the storm approach. Our neighbour was busily taking in all moveable objects and kept giving us knowing nods, an indication that this was going to be a bad storm.
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| Overlooking Lapad Beach |
Eventually, after torrential rain, the storm passed and we decided to keep to our plan of going to Lapad, the northern most Dubrovnik suburb, by bus for the afternoon. David had a swim at the pebble beach (rather than the concrete or the sandy beach!) before we took off back to town. As we approached the town to find a place for dinner that night, the heavens opened once again. As the Old Town is at the base of the hill, steps take you from the walls down into the town. These stairs became waterfalls, with water cascading down into the main street, and water pooling inches deep on the stoned placa. We waded through the water, too impatient to wait for the storm to pass armed with groceries. A change of plan as dinner would now be at the villa.
After each downpour, the weather cleared giving a false sense of security that the storm had passed. Once agin we were caught off guard. We decided, after dinner, to venture down into the town to a bar where jazz was played each night. All started well with the evening being balmy and still. Too quickly, the weather turned sour with yet another downpour. With the knowledge that we would be having to carry yet another pair of wet shoes back to Dublin with us, we took off our shoes and waded home once again, and up those stairs for the last time!
We loved Croatia and have most definitely come back fitter from all the exercise! We would love to go back again some day!
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| Cool in Korcula! |
The apartment was close to a small local market. Ivan had left us juice and cool water but we were still in need of breakfast supplies. After putting on a load of washing we went to stock up and get used to the local currency - the kuna. Returning to the apartment, laden with groceries we hung out our washing - as you do living in apartment blocks in Croatia on a line on a pully system - by hanging out the window. I left this job to David as I felt sure I would have our washing on the ground far below.
Our first evening after dinner, was spent walking the Old Town. Narrow laneways between white stone buildings the town. These laneways were like a maze, each one intriguing and leading to another to explore. Some opened to a large courtyard, many with washing strung in view of the diners eating at the various restaurants. Vivid pink bougainvillieas clung to old walls and there always seemed to be a cat watching, almost out of view.
After a lazy start the next morning, we walked down to the waterfront to organise and book ferry tickets,
David had always wanted to visit Medjugorge in Bosnia, and when we planned our trip to Croatia this was a must on our list. Located 141 km from Split, we hired a car and to our astonishment were given a convertible. We took off for a full day that was to take in Medjugorge and Mostar. We travelled along the motorway, before turning off onto a pot holed road that led us to the town of Medjugorge. Since 1981, the Blessed Virgin Mary has been appearing here and giving messages to the world and has been the site of many pilgrimages and visits from people of all faiths. 
We only had 2 nights here, not enough to explore all there was to see on the island. We bought swimming shoes, so we could comfortably get into the water without stumbling and falling as had been the way I previously had entered the water.
The path to the Old City, down 300 steps and the return via a different path another 265 steps, took us past pink bougainvillieas and tall sunflowers, fig and olive trees and vines with plump grapes. I loved this walk which we sometimes did 3 times a day despite the heat, humidity and all those steps!
Prior to arriving in Dubrovnik we had decided on two things we most wanted to do. One of these was to take the cable car to the mountain top above the city. We rode the car to the top at sunset and the view was spectacular. We avoided, where possible, the young girls taking numerous selfies and the couple locked in a passionate embrace, to take our snapshots before heading back down the cable car and into town for dinner. 
Despite the disappointment of our swim, dinner, that evening, at a restaurant overlooking the water and marina was lovely. The evening air was humid and hot late into the night and the view of the water helped to give a feeling of being cool. We climbed the numerous steps back up the hill to our villa to prepare for our kayak tour early the next day.
On our last day in Croatia we saw the other side to the beautiful mediterranean weather we had been experiencing. A huge storm approached with thunder and lightening rolling over the city. We had been within the walls after attending mass and buying some souvenirs when we decided to return to the villa to watch the storm approach. Our neighbour was busily taking in all moveable objects and kept giving us knowing nods, an indication that this was going to be a bad storm.
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